0.75 liter

In the heart of the northern Etna amphitheatre, where time seems to be carved in stone, lies Calderara Sottana, the realm of black stones. Here, at an altitude of 600 to 650 metres in the municipality of Randazzo, one of the volcano's geological mysteries is revealed: A terroir so rich in stones that, in the most characteristic areas, the soil disappears beneath them – fist-sized, light chunks of black pumice and basalt. The name Calderara evokes the warmth that the black stones absorb during the day and release back into the earth during the cold nights. Marc de Grazia recognised Calderara Sottana as one of the three sacred 'contrade' of the pure Ellittico heritage – that precious geological legacy resulting from the activity of the Ellittico crater between 60,000 and 15,000 years ago. Of all the crus in the Etna DOC, these are undoubtedly the stoniest soils, even stonier than the aristocratic San Lorenzo to the west. Here, ancient vines aged between 50 and 100 years take root in this mineral labyrinth of volcanic rock, where every plant fights for every centimetre of fertile soil.

The forest literally begins at the vineyard fence: the "Vinea nel Bosco" plot, planted in 2001, lies at an altitude of around 530 metres on the edge of a deciduous forest, which brings mist and coolness in the mornings, whilst the afternoon sun provides sufficient warmth as it filters through the treetops. The soil, composed of Alberese, limestone and clay marl, yields little but what it does produce is highly concentrated. Spontaneous fermentation of the Sangiovese grapes begins in stainless steel, before the young wine matures for 26 months in large, 20-hectolitre wooden casks and is then left to rest in the bottle for at least another year. With an alcohol content of 14.5 per cent, it is full-bodied without feeling heavy – the 2020 vintage yielded a total of 2,412 bottles and 108 magnums.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are situated in the territories of three neighbouring municipalities within the Chianti Classico region: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three major vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time, in order to reflect the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Lodovico Lisini died in 1950, leaving the estate to his daughter Elina. At a time when the mezzadria system was coming to an end and agriculture was falling into disuse, Elina took a different approach: she invested, planted new vineyards and transformed the family home into a proper winery. In 1967, she was one of the 24 founders of the Brunello Consortium. She served as its president for many years. Until her death in 2009, it was the quiet, tenacious Elina Lisini who built the reputation of this estate – and of a wine that Giulio Gambelli, Italy's most legendary wine taster, helped to shape. The estate is situated in southern Montalcino between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin, 300 to 350 metres above sea level and characterised by the warm Maremma breezes. 2021 was a year of extraordinary harmony: a warm, balanced summer, cool nights lasting well into September, consistent ripening and precise tannins.

Vinea Vecchia truly lives up to its name: the vineyard plot between Panzano and Montefioralle was planted in 1981, back in the days when Chianti was still produced using old, unselected Sangiovese clonal selections. With the 2020 vintage, it is being given its own label for the first time, as its character has become too distinctive to be part of any blend. At an altitude of 500 to 540 metres, Alberese rock alternates with schistose clay-marl – a soil that demands little yield from the old vines, but all the more concentration in return. Following spontaneous fermentation, the Sangiovese matures for 26 months in ten-hectolitre wooden casks, large enough to allow the fruit and terroir to express themselves fully. A total of 2,572 bottles and 46 magnums were produced, each numbered by hand.

Many people today forget what Petresco historically represents: Luca Orsini's response to the Super Tuscan craze of the 1990s. Whilst half of Panzano was ageing Cabernet and Merlot in new French Allier oak to please American critics, Orsini remained steadfast. He created a pure Sangiovese, deliberately classifying it as an IGT to free himself from rigid doctrines, and proved to the world that Panzano needs no Bordeaux-style crutches. In the exceptional 2021 vintage, this single-varietal Sangiovese achieves a stature that can, without hesitation, be ranked amongst the great Tuscan terroir monuments.

Some vintages need no introduction. 2019 is one of them. Mild winter, soils well watered. Cool spring, vegetation two weeks behind the calendar – a blessing in disguise. Then a summer with moderate warmth around 25 degrees, without the scorching extremes that lignify tannins and burn fruit. And a September that brought everything together: slowly, evenly, precisely. Montalcino breathed a sigh of relief. Roberto Giannelli and Paolo Caciorgna had it easy – and difficult at the same time. Easy, because the raw material was impeccable. Difficult because you have to make a wine of the century from a vintage of the century. The answer: no over-commitment. Steel, concrete, large barrels. Patience instead of intervention and respect instead of actionism.

Lodovico Antinori made history with Ornellaia and Masseto, and put the Alta Maremma on the world map with Biserno. He is now writing the latest chapter of his story together with his daughter Sophia: Tenuta del Nicchio in Bibbona, situated between Bolgheri and the Tyrrhenian Sea. Le 2 Ville takes its name from a historic estate belonging to the Gherardesca family, which borders directly on the vineyard – a tribute to the "Signori della Maremma", whose lands have shaped these coastal hills for a millennium. The wine itself is a celebration of duality: Merlot and Cabernet Franc form the international foundation, yet around 20% Ciliegiolo adds a distinctly Tuscan touch. This ancient, almost forgotten variety brings a vibrant fruitiness and that playful lightness that charmingly counterbalances the Bordeaux heritage.

The year 2020 carries a heavy burden in our memories. Pandemic, silence, state of emergency. The vines didn't care. They grew – under a sun that knew no mercy in July and August. Up to 40 degrees in Tuscany. Water reserves scarce. The consortium's message: "annata versatile", a changeable vintage. What sounds diplomatic meant that the differences between the estates were greater in 2020 than ever before. San Filippo was one of the beneficiaries. The north-east exposure at 260 to 280 metres, the clayey-limestone subsoil with slate components – this terroir does not lose its freshness when others have long since lost it. Organic cultivation since 2013: soils that breathe, buffer. Vines that know stress, but don't break from it.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Etna is one of Italy's most fascinating wine regions and Andrea Franchetti is probably the most fanatical producer in this area. Added to this are eighty-year-old indigenous Nerello Mascalese vines. The single vineyard Contrada Porcaria has a thoroughly masculine personality. Darkly scented with ripe fruit and menthol, the palate is predominantly spice and mineral with many other facets. The course and the final are rich, dense and very convincing. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for this Brunello comes from a 14.4 hectare south-facing vineyard with loamy soils and lots of boulders. Complex, dark and earthy bouquet of ripe black cherries, enriched with notes of dried flowers, spices, crushed stones and a hint of animal musk. The palate reveals silky textures and pure Sangiovese fruit, underpinned by earthy tones supported by a network of minerals and tannins. The mouthfeel is always lean, tangy and soft, although you can feel the wine's full body and great appeal at all times. The final is polished and refined and lasts for several minutes. SUPERIORE.DE

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

Rio Sordo stands alone. It is the southernmost vineyard of the Produttori del Barbaresco, a narrow strip stretching from north to south and bordering the municipality of Treiso to the west. The soils are light in colour, low in limestone and airy – quite unlike the clay-rich slopes to the north or the limestone-rich sites in the centre. And it is precisely this 'less' that leads to a 'more': silkiness. Tannins that never overwhelm, but rather accompany the wine. A surface that seduces before revealing its depth. The winemaking process is the same as for all Produttori del Barbaresco vineyards: 28 days' maceration, more than thirty months in Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. First vinified as a single vineyard in 1978 – at a time when the world was just beginning to take Barbaresco seriously.

There are wines that tell stories even before you've tasted them. This is one of them. Its name – the Hill of the Magpies – refers to that special vineyard where these elegant birds build their nests and from where the view sweeps unobstructed across the Tyrrhenian Sea. Here, where the salty Mediterranean breeze meets volcanic soil, one of Tuscany's most innovative white wines has been produced for more than two decades. It embodies a refreshing spirit which, to quote: "is as delicate as a breeze, yet at the same time lush and self-assured". This poetic description hits the nail on the head: Poggio alle Gazze is Ornellaia's answer to the question of what a white wine from Bolgheri might be like if it possessed the elegance and depth of the great reds. Six months' ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, followed by the assembly of the final blend and a further 12 months' ageing in the bottle, complete this masterpiece of white wine artistry.

The MGA Le Coste is located in the heights of Monforte d'Alba, where the rows of vines nestle at 440 metres on south-east facing slopes – a site that Barolo connoisseurs appreciate for its vigour and unmistakable character. The whitish marl soils of this plot of just under one hectare give the Nebbiolo the mineral depth and structural rigour that make Monforte wines so unique. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino vinify the grapes of this single-vineyard Barolo with the utmost respect for the terroir: temperature-controlled fermentation in steel tanks is followed by an extended maceration of 60 days using the historic method of the sunken cap, before the wine matures for a full 36 months in large oak barrels and cement vats after malolactic fermentation.

The self as an extension of consciousness – this is how Gianfranco Fino understands the name of this wine. The place where creativity awakens and the future emerges. A philosophy that suits the man his friends once called "Geriatra del Primitivo": The geriatrician who saves old vines where others uproot them. The adventure began in 2004, when the former olive consultant discovered an overgrown vineyard in Manduria. Fino planted a new vineyard for the Sé, following an ancient pattern: Alberello pugliese, the "rabbit ears" of Salento, with 12,000 vines per hectare. Each vine bears only 400 grams of grapes – concentrated essence instead of mass. The chalky-clay soils and the breeze from the Ionian Sea do the rest. After manual harvest and two to three weeks of maceration, the wine matures for nine months in wood, unfiltered and unfined.

To the north, Pora borders a vertical rocky ridge that drops steeply down to the Tanaro – covered by a dense oak forest, renowned for its white truffles. This is no coincidence. The river is close by, and its influence is palpable: summer mornings are milder than elsewhere, the humidity is higher, and the soil is more fertile than in most other vineyards belonging to the Produttori del Barbaresco. What the vines produce is a Nebbiolo with a particular approachability – a gentle touch that does not deny the traditional craftsmanship. For the craftsmanship is uncompromising: 28 days' maceration, at least thirty months in large Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. Domizio Cavazza was one of the first to include Pora 1894 on his vineyard map; the Produttori have been bottling it separately since 1967.

Fragore by Donnafugata from the Etna region of Montelaguardia in Randazzo joins the collection of iconic wines Mille e una Notte and Ben Ryè. With only 15,000 bottles, Donnafugata has produced a limited edition treasure. Fragore means thunder in Italian and refers to the volcanic thunder of Mount Etna, Europe's highest and most active volcano. Grapes of the autochthonous Nerello Mascalese grape variety from selected vineyards were used.

There are wines that not only tell of earth, climate and grapes - they also tell of light and space. Vistamare is undoubtedly one of these rare creatures. Named after the expansive view that Bolgheri offers as far as the sea on a clear day, this wine is a Mediterranean promise, realised with the care and elegance with which Angelo Gaja has been setting standards for decades - only this time not in Piedmont, but on the Tuscan coast.

A Barbera with a mysterious appearance – as if one were gazing into a dark, purplish-red abyss from which concentrated essences rise. Scarrone Vigna Vecchia comes from vines that are decades old – some planted around 1918 – in the Scarrone vineyard near Castiglione Falletto. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by around 16 months' ageing in predominantly French barriques, where the judicious use of oak subtly enhances the terroir.

With its 2020 Brunello di Montalcino, Tenuta Argiano shows once again why this historic winery is one of the leading voices in Montalcino. The Sangiovese Grosso grapes come from 60 hectares of vineyards around the 16th century villa, whose soils are characterised by clay, limestone and galestro. The year 2020 began with a mild winter and a consistently warm spring. A stable summer without extreme heat peaks and cool nights in September allowed the grapes to ripen evenly and completely. The grapes were harvest by hand in several stages, followed by careful vinification in cement and steel tanks. The wine then matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and tonneaux to harmoniously combine structure and elegance.

Barolo Le Coste di Monforte from the outstanding 2019 vintage is utterly captivating in the glass. Rose petals, cedarwood, mint, sweet pipe tobacco and blood orange are the first aromas to emerge. On the palate, it is deep and complex, and exceptionally beautiful and harmonious for a young Barolo. Time in the glass brings out its countless nuances. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright, vibrant pink colour. Spicy oak and vanilla nuances complement the aromas of sour red berries, plums and herbs on the inviting nose. GF exudes a very nice freshness that helps to focus and highlight the intense, dense red fruit flavours. It is more reminiscent of a sparkling and racy red wine than a rosé champagne. The long finish is lively and precise, yet multi-layered and complex. Unfortunately, only 3,000 bottles of this masterpiece are produced each year. SUPERIORE.DE